Wilting shrubs? Emitters that don't drip? Tubing chewed or split? We repair drip lines so beds and trees get steady water.
Wondering what drip irrigation repair costs?
Fast, easy estimate
Look for wilting or scorched plants, wet spots beside the tubing, a line that has gone limp or dry soil where an emitter should be.
Yes. We look at your drip irrigation repair problem and explain the fix and what it involves before you decide.
We work in Midland, Greenwood, Stanton and nearby Midland County. Call or send the form and we'll get back to you to schedule.
Drip is built for dry country, but our water is hard. Minerals gather at the tiny openings in each emitter until the flow slows to nothing, and filters clog long before anyone looks at them. A plant that looks thirsty may be sitting beside an emitter that quit months ago.
Sun and wind add to it. Surface tubing becomes brittle and cracks, and pieces pull apart where soil has shifted. Hard ground around a shrub or tree makes it worse: roots need steady water in a spot where the soil dries fast.
Texas requires irrigation work to be performed by or under a TCEQ-licensed irrigator.
A plant with its own emitter should be fine. If it isn't, check the emitter.
A split or loose fitting can send water to the wrong place and starve the end of the line.
A line that doesn't fill may have lost pressure or lost its connection.
Scale or grit can block the opening completely.
Animals, trimmers and foot traffic damage surface lines.
The first plants flourish while the last ones suffer when pressure falls along the run.
We turn the system on and walk it, watching which emitters flow and which don't.
Pressure and filtering problems can look like emitter failures, so we start at the head of the system.
We clear or replace emitters, repair tubing and fittings and secure the line where it moves.
We confirm each plant is getting water and that pressure holds to the end of the line.
Size matters: a few emitters in one bed are a short job, while a long run with many zones takes longer. Age matters too. Older tubing can crack when we handle it, and sometimes replacing a stretch is the practical choice.
If you can, mark plants that look stressed before we visit. We'll start there and work back along the line.
A little routine care goes a long way. Flushing the end of each line, cleaning the filter and checking emitters a few times each season catches clogs before plants suffer. Mulch over tubing helps shield it from sun and wind, as long as emitters stay clear.
We can show you how to do these checks yourself, or take care of them during a visit. If a bed has changed, with new plants or a removed shrub, we'll adjust the emitters so water goes where roots are now.
Trees need a different approach from beds. A young tree wants water close to the trunk at first, then farther out as its roots spread. If a drip ring has been in place for years, it may no longer reach the roots, and we can lengthen or move it.
Seasonal start-up and shut-down, plus a full zone check.
Learn more →Find the break, cut out the damage, repair the line.
Learn more →Cracked, clogged or tilted heads fixed and re-aimed.
Learn more →Tell us what the system is doing and we'll explain what we think is wrong and what the fix involves.
(432) 400-4694Get an Estimate →Most often they're blocked by mineral scale or grit. A clean-out or a new emitter usually fixes it.
Yes. We splice in a repair or replace the damaged stretch and secure it so it stays put.
Generally, yes. A filter and pressure regulator protect the emitters. If they've failed, the rest of the line suffers.
We can add drip to a new bed, shrub or tree if your system has room. Tell us what you'd like to water.
Yes. We'll look at the line, explain the problem and what we'd do.