Water pooling by the curb? A soggy patch with no rain? A water bill that jumped? We trace the break and repair the line.
Wondering what leak and broken line repair costs?
Fast, easy estimate
Look for pooling water, a spongy patch, a zone that sprays weakly, low pressure at the heads or a higher water bill than usual.
Yes. We look at your leak and broken line repair problem and explain the fix and what it involves before you decide.
We work in Midland, Greenwood, Stanton and nearby Midland County. Call or send the form and we'll get back to you to schedule.
Under many Midland lawns, caliche sits close to the surface. It's rigid and uneven, so a pipe resting on it can flex at the wrong spot, and a trench cut through it often gets backfilled with rock that later presses on the pipe. Shallow lines also feel every temperature swing.
Then there's the weather. Summer heat bakes plastic fittings until they turn brittle, and the occasional hard freeze, like Winter Storm Uri in February 2021, can split pipe and fittings that hold water. A crack from a winter you barely remember may only show itself in July.
Texas requires irrigation work to be performed by or under a TCEQ-licensed irrigator.
A puddle that appears when the system runs, or that never dries, often sits right over a break.
Heads that barely rise or spray short can mean water is escaping upstream before it reaches them.
Soil that stays soft over a line can mean a slow leak has been washing the ground away.
If usage went up and your watering didn't, a hidden leak is worth ruling out.
A box that fills after the system runs can point to a leaking valve, fitting or the pipe beside it.
Hissing or running water after a cycle can suggest a leak under pressure.
We run zones one at a time and watch pressure and wet areas, narrowing down the section of line that is failing.
We dig only where needed and try to set aside the turf so it can go back in place.
Damaged pipe is cut out and replaced, using fittings suited to the job, and we look for weak sections nearby.
We refill the line, run the zone and check the repair and the heads before the hole is closed.
Depth, soil and access all change the work. A break in loose soil beside the house is quicker than one under a driveway edge or in caliche. Mainlines hold pressure all the time, so a break there can be more urgent than one on a zone line, which only wets the ground when the zone runs.
If you suspect a main leak, you can shut off the irrigation supply while you wait for us. Take a photo of the wet area and note when it shows up, since that helps us find it.
A leak repair starts with listening and watching, not digging. We use pressure, wet ground and the layout of the zone to work out where a break is likely, and we open the ground at that spot. If it isn't there, we say so and narrow it down further.
Once we reach the pipe, we cut out the cracked section and replace it with a clean piece, so you don't end up with a patch on a patch. We take care with caliche and rock when we backfill, so nothing sharp rests against the new pipe.
Fix zones that won't start, won't stop or run weak.
Learn more →Cracked, clogged or tilted heads fixed and re-aimed.
Learn more →Seasonal start-up and shut-down, plus a full zone check.
Learn more →Tell us what the system is doing and we'll explain what we think is wrong and what the fix involves.
(432) 400-4694Get an Estimate →We run zones one at a time, watch pressure and look for wet ground. Most leaks give themselves away in the zone where the water pressure drops.
We dig only where we have to and set the turf aside to be replaced. In caliche, the hole can run a little larger than we'd like.
If the leak is on a zone line, turn that zone off and leave the rest running. For a suspected main leak, shut off the irrigation supply.
No. A broken head leaks at the surface. A line leak is buried, so it shows up as pooling water, a soft patch or low pressure elsewhere.
Yes. We explain what we think is wrong and what the repair involves before any digging starts.