A zone that won't turn on? One that never shuts off? Water barely reaching the heads? We find the faulty valve, solenoid or wire and fix it.
Wondering what valve and zone repair costs?
Fast, easy estimate
Look for a zone that won't run, one that runs constantly, heads that lift only a little, or a valve box full of water.
Yes. We look at your valve and zone repair problem and explain the fix and what it involves before you decide.
We work in Midland, Greenwood, Stanton and nearby Midland County. Call or send the form and we'll get back to you to schedule.
A valve is a small chamber with a rubber diaphragm, and hard water is tough on it. Mineral scale builds up around the seat and in the tiny passages that let the valve open and close, so a zone can start sticking half open or refuse to seal. Grit that gets in after a repair or a pressure surge can do the same.
Valve boxes sit low in the ground, where dust, insects and roots find them. Add shallow wiring that gets nicked by shovels and aeration, and you can see why a zone problem in Midland can be a valve, a wire or the controller. Sorting out which one is the whole game.
Texas requires irrigation work to be performed by or under a TCEQ-licensed irrigator.
The controller says it's running, but nothing comes on. That usually means a bad solenoid, a wire or a valve that won't open.
A valve that won't close can keep a zone wet long after the cycle ends and waste water.
Scale or debris in the valve can restrict flow so the heads barely rise.
Crossed or damaged wiring can trigger more than one valve at once.
Water pooling in the box can mean a leaking fitting, a cracked valve body or a weeping diaphragm.
An electrical hum can mean a failing solenoid, which may be about to stop working.
We run the zone manually and see whether the controller is sending a signal and whether the valve responds.
We open the box, test the solenoid and trace the wire, so we know whether it's electrical or mechanical.
A solenoid or diaphragm may be all that is needed. When the valve body is cracked or worn, we replace the valve.
We check start, stop and spray pressure, then close the box and confirm the neighbors still work.
Sometimes the part is cheap and the digging is the work: a buried box takes time to find, and a wire fault can be anywhere along a run. Multi-valve manifolds let us fix one valve without disturbing the rest. Older valves can be harder to find parts for, which sometimes tips the choice toward replacing the valve.
If you can, find the valve boxes before we arrive. They look like green or black lids set flush with the lawn. Don't worry if you can't spot them; we'll look.
Valves are one of the more expensive parts of a system, and many valve problems turn out to be a wire, a solenoid or a controller setting. Testing in order, from the controller to the wire to the solenoid to the valve body, means we only replace what has actually failed.
If a valve does need replacing, we'll check that the new one matches the zone's pressure and flow, and that its connections are sound, so you aren't back in the same box next season.
Repair, replace and reprogram sprinkler timers.
Learn more →Find the break, cut out the damage, repair the line.
Learn more →Seasonal start-up and shut-down, plus a full zone check.
Learn more →Tell us what the system is doing and we'll explain what we think is wrong and what the fix involves.
(432) 400-4694Get an Estimate →It's usually the solenoid, the wire to the valve or the valve itself. We test in that order, because the controller is often fine.
A valve that doesn't close all the way, usually from debris or scale on the seat or a worn diaphragm, can leave water flowing.
Not always. A new solenoid or diaphragm is often enough. We'll tell you which and why.
We can usually find it by tracing the wire or following the pipe. It may take a bit of digging.
Yes. We'll explain our findings and the repair we suggest before starting.