Geysers? Heads stuck down? Spray reaching the street instead of the grass? We replace and re-aim sprinkler heads so the water lands where you planned.
Wondering what sprinkler head repair costs?
Fast, easy estimate
Look for a geyser, a head that won't pop up, spray aimed at the sidewalk, or a patch of grass that stays dry while its neighbors are fine.
Yes. We look at your sprinkler head repair problem and explain the fix and what it involves before you decide.
We work in Midland, Greenwood, Stanton and nearby Midland County. Call or send the form and we'll get back to you to schedule.
Heads take a beating here. Wind lifts the spray and carries it off the lawn, fine dust works into the riser and keeps pop-ups from retracting, and the minerals in hard water crust over a nozzle until a clean fan becomes a dribble. Mowers and car tires finish off whatever the sun has already made brittle.
Caliche is the other culprit. A hard layer often sits just under the topsoil and refuses to give, so a head set in loose fill beside it tends to settle, lean or heave. Part of the job is working out which problem you actually have, so the new head doesn't fail the same way the old one did.
Texas requires irrigation work to be performed by or under a TCEQ-licensed irrigator.
A snapped riser or a cracked body lets water shoot straight up. It wastes water fast and washes out the soil around the head.
Grit in the riser or a failed seal keeps it down, so its section of lawn goes dry while the rest stays green.
A bumped or settled head can throw water at the street, the fence or the house instead of the turf.
Scale or debris in the nozzle breaks up the pattern. Often it's the nozzle, not the whole head.
When coverage no longer overlaps, you get stripes of brown. A head may be tilted, sunk or the wrong nozzle.
Water seeping up beside a head usually points to a worn seal or a loose connection beneath it.
We watch every head on the zone work, so we see the problem the way your lawn does, not just the one you noticed.
Failed heads come out so we can see whether the riser, the nozzle or the connection below is at fault.
We match the new head and nozzle to its neighbors so the zone keeps an even pattern, and reset the grade around it.
We run the zone again, adjust arc and throw, and check that the overlap closes the dry gaps.
A single swapped nozzle is a very different visit from a zone where half the heads have sunk. Head type matters too: pop-up sprays and rotors use different parts, and mixing them on one zone gives uneven watering. Pressure plays a part, since a zone with weak pressure can make good heads look bad.
Before you call, run the zone and note which heads are the problem. A flag or a stone beside each one saves time. If a head is geysering, you can shut the zone off at the controller until we arrive.
Not every misbehaving head needs replacing. A head that has only turned can be reset, and one with a clogged nozzle often just needs a clean one. We'll show you the old part so you can see what failed.
Where a zone keeps losing water to wind, we may suggest a different nozzle or a lower trajectory. Where heads are the wrong type for the area they cover, we'll explain what we'd change. You can always say no to an upgrade and stay with a like-for-like repair.
Find the break, cut out the damage, repair the line.
Learn more →Fix zones that won't start, won't stop or run weak.
Learn more →Seasonal start-up and shut-down, plus a full zone check.
Learn more →Tell us what the system is doing and we'll explain what we think is wrong and what the fix involves.
(432) 400-4694Get an Estimate →Yes. Many visits are a single head or nozzle. If we see other heads close to failing, we'll point them out and leave the choice to you.
Heads get knocked by mowers, shift as the soil moves, or turn as the riser wears. Resetting the arc usually fixes it. If the head has tilted, it may need to be re-leveled or replaced.
If the body and riser are intact, a new nozzle is often enough. A cracked body, a leaking seal or a stuck riser means replacing the head.
Overlap has been lost. A tilted or sunken head, a wrong nozzle or a partly clogged one is usually the cause. We test before deciding which.
Yes. We look at the problem, explain what we'd do and what it involves, and you decide whether to go ahead.